In the early days of Aboriginal fashion label Clothing the Gaps, "Am I allowed to wear that?" was a common question to hit their inbox.
It's why the majority Aboriginal-owned business and social enterprise decided to mark its items "ally friendly" and "mob only".
"[Customers] were really confused navigating that space between allyship and appropriation … they wanted to support First Nations people, but didn't want to get it wrong," co-founder and Gunditjmara woman Laura Thompson says.
Knowing some non-Indigenous people feel apprehensive about how the wider First Nations community might react to them wearing First Nations fashion, Kokatha and Wirangu woman Treena Clark decided to explore further.
The chancellor's postdoctoral Indigenous research fellow at the University of Technology Sydney recently spoke to First Nations Knowledge Holders about ally wear.
Ms Clark says most of the Knowledge Holders agreed that ally wear comes down to "respect, genuine intentions, and being a good ally".
She explains that there is not one correct answer to the question of how to engage with Indigenous fashion and that "it's important to include a range of perspectives in the conversation, especially because First Nations community members might be drawn into these discussions by non-Indigenous people".
Is ally wear just performative?
Ms Clark found that generally, Knowledge Holders either loved seeing non-Indigenous people wearing First Nations fashion respectfully, or didn't have a problem with it.
"Many described ally wear as generally harmless, and better than racism," Ms Clark says.
But some wondered whether the person wearing it was a true ally with genuine intentions.
"Others saw non-Indigenous people wearing First Nations fashion as a way of demonstrating solidarity, supporting First Nations businesses, and celebrating First Nations culture."
Ms Thompson says while she appreciates wearing a T-shirt can feel tokenistic, the impact of it can be powerful.
"When we think about cultural safety and make environments more culturally safe, [for example] people might hang a poster or put up an Aboriginal flag, I get that same feeling when I walk into a room and I see someone wearing an Aboriginal flag pin.
"It doesn't mean I can completely trust that person, but I feel safer with them."
'Beyond making a purchase'
Some of the Knowledge Holders Ms Clark spoke to touched on the need for allies to wear First Nations fashion respectfully, learn about First Nations histories, and contribute more meaningfully.
She says allyship goes beyond simply buying Indigenous clothing.
"It's about showing real respect, standing in solidarity, and enacting meaningful support."
Ms Clark recommends people consume writings by First Nations people on what it means to be a good ally.
Ms Thompson says wearing First Nations fashion is a great starting point for encouraging change, but the person needs to understand what they are wearing.
"When you put that tee on, you are making a statement and opening yourself up to have those conversations.
"For non-Indigenous people who wear a 'not the date to celebrate' shirt, and go to an Australia Day barbecue, they are … the most influential person to educate similar-minded friends.
"When purchasing from us, there is an expectation you're able to hold a conversation and understand the meaning of why you're wearing that shirt."
She says if someone isn't familiar with the message behind the clothing, or the business they are buying from, the fashion isn't for them.
"If you don't get the lingo or the language on the tee … if you don't say 'deadly', should you be wearing it on your tee?"
Watch out for cultural appropriation
Shauny Edwards owns clothing design brand House of Darwin, which also runs social programs in remote Indigenous communities.
The brand partners with Indigenous artists from all over Australia to create its collections.
Mr Edwards says House of Darwin's apparel is for everyone.
"We encourage anyone, whether black, white or brindle, to wear and support.
"Australia is such a multi-national country, we should be encouraging everyone to get out and support. The more people wearing Indigenous clothing the better."
He says people being educated about the clothes they are wearing can help avoid cultural appropriation.
"Research where it's from, who made it, what the story is.
"So you are better educated about what you are consuming, and that it's a story that aligns with you."
Ms Clark encourages people to be aware of the broader issues in First Nations fashion, such as cultural theft, appropriation, stereotyping, and exoticism.
"The best approach is to follow established guidelines, like buying from First Nations businesses that are certified by trusted organisations such as Supply Nation, Trading Blak, or the Indigenous Art Code."
She also recommends following trusted sources like the Instagram account @ausindigenousfashion, which regularly showcases First Nations-owned brands and collaborative designs.
"Also look at who's featured on First Nations-runway shows, like Country to Couture at the Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair, or the Back in Blak Runway curated by Mob in Fashion at the Melbourne Fashion Festival."
Time to reflect
Ms Thompson says non-Indigenous people wearing First Nations fashion should recognise the privilege that comes with "being able to take it off at the end of the day".
"For mob, we have to live and breathe these issues every day.
"First Nations fashion does come with a responsibility."
But it's not all work, she says.
"It's also an opportunity to celebrate Australia's culture and the oldest living history."
Mr Edwards says reaching reconciliation "is a journey", and wearing First Nations fashion can be part of that.
"Any sign of love and support towards the mission should be welcomed with open arms."
