Afghanistan has everything a tourist could want: stunning landscapes, delicious cuisine and unmatched hospitality.
A land of rich history, invaded by empires but never conquered, left scattered with ornate mosques and ancient Buddhist sites.
And it's also a place some say has become safer — less violent — than before the Taliban seized power again in 2021.
Australian tour guide Paris Hailwood is one of them.
She became interested in the Middle East when she saw the media coverage of the September 11 attacks, and pursued a masters degree in counterterrorism with the dream of becoming a conflict journalist.
"I think women's rights in Afghanistan is probably one of the most pressing issues and the most uncertain now," she told the ABC on the eve of leading a 10-day, women-only tour of Afghanistan for women from North America and Europe.
"I know it's controversial, but the Taliban have been able to provide some security.
Editor's note: This article, including a photo caption, has been updated to better reflect the talent's work and comments.
"The people causing trouble before are now the people in power. So it's within their own interest, really, to keep you safe."
'High threat of terrorism'
The Australian government categorically warns against visiting Afghanistan.
"There are no Australian officials in Afghanistan, and our ability to provide consular and passport assistance is severely limited," says the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade's Smartraveller website.
"Do not travel to Afghanistan due to the extremely dangerous security situation and the very high threat of terrorism and kidnapping."
The regional offshoot of the Islamic State group is at odds with the Taliban and routinely carries out terror attacks.
Three Spanish tourists and three Afghans were killed at a Bamiyan market in a March 2024 attack claimed by Islamic State.
That didn't deter American adult film performer Whitney Wright, who earlier this year promoted her visit to Afghanistan during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan.
Nor did the threat of violence put off UK-based content creator Kieran Brown.
"This is your sign to book that lads' trip to Afghanistan," a video on his Instagram page declares.
"I would encourage travel there but only to experienced travellers that have their wits about them," he told the ABC via WhatsApp from Bali, where he is based.
"A lot of the things you read online are exaggerated," Mr Brown said.
"Although the people in Afghanistan have a tough life, it's not as bad as it's made out to be."
Around 85 per cent of the population lives on less than $US1 per day, according to the United Nations.
Travellers argue they are injecting much-needed cash into the Afghan economy and that the flow-on to the Taliban authorities is minimal.
"My $80 visa fee isn't going to fund all those activities," Ms Hailwood said.
"When I'm in the country and I'm paying the restaurants directly, the hotels directly, that's how I'm contributing to the society."
The trips also intended to provide women greater understanding of Afghanistan and the challenges faced by its women, Ms Hailwood said.
"When you bring a group of women, who for their whole life have been taught that Afghanistan is hell on Earth, it's the most dangerous place, women are oppressed, they don't have voices, and you go there and you see a different side, it changes your life."
Mr Brown said locals told him how grateful they were that he was in their country.
"I may have contributed money to the Taliban by spending money in Afghanistan, but I also helped local businesses," he said.
"The people and their government are two different entities."
Poverty, gender apartheid
The Taliban recaptured Afghanistan's capital Kabul in 2021 and have since enforced laws to "prevent vice and promote virtue".
Women have been banned from education, most jobs, and visiting public places such as parks — a situation the UN describes as "gender apartheid".
"In Afghanistan, the reality is, is that your sex is the number one determinant of the life that you're going to have," Ms Hailwood said, adding her trips have "certain initiatives" to help women on the ground.
"There are places all around the world that you don't want to go to, that you don't agree with the government. Is the answer to turn your back on the women?"
Nasima Kakae once worked for Afghanistan's ministry of women's affairs — which was abolished and replaced by Taliban morality police in 2021.
She now runs a travel agency in suburban Melbourne and volunteers as the secretary of Women for Change, a non-profit organisation aimed at empowering Afghan women.
"The people who are travelling to Afghanistan — if they are YouTubers, if they are tourists — they are in the coordination of the Taliban, absolutely," she said.
"They go to the beautiful hotels, they are escorted by the Taliban … have they knocked on the doors of a [shut-down] school?
"Have you seen any of them go to a prison and see where those activist women are who have been arrested by Taliban years back?"
Afghan women's advocates were opposed to moves whereby the international community might normalise the Taliban regime said Ayesha Khan, a senior research fellow in gender equality at London-based think tank ODI Global.
"On the one hand, you appreciate the interest in engaging with another culture and seeing how people live and wanting to spend your foreign currency in a country that you know to be poor," Dr Khan said of those travelling to Afghanistan.
"At the same time, the voyeurism of going to travel in a country that is experiencing gender apartheid is something that I would encourage tourists to ask themselves: why are they doing this?"
The Australian NGO Mahboba's Promise has worked in Afghanistan for 26 years with vulnerable groups such as widows and orphans.
"Oftentimes you see in these [travel] videos, you see all these kids surrounding these travellers laughing, smiling — and that's pure and real joy," said the organisation's vice president, Nawid Cina.
"But what's the story behind these kids? Why are they outside? Why are they trying to shine your shoe?"
It is estimated that there are more than 2 million widows and 1.5 million orphans in Afghanistan — many of whom lost spouses or parents during decades of armed conflict.
Mr Cina said Taliban prohibitions on women working or leaving the home without a male guardian had led to an uptick in child labour, as boys sought to help support their families.
According to UNICEF, less than half of Afghan children under 12 are attending primary school.
"If you're coming to Afghanistan, you need to be showed this reality," Mr Cina said.
The Taliban eyes international legitimacy
Officials in Afghanistan reported that foreign tourist numbers increased from 691 in 2021 to 7,000 in 2023.
Ms Hailwood said the Taliban were "very happy" about receiving Western visitors — and that tourist visas were granted almost immediately.
"They definitely want foreigners there," she said.
"I think for them, as well, it's about legitimising their power and legitimising that the Taliban are the new government.
"And I think whether or not we like it, they are."
No nation has formally recognised the Taliban as Afghanistan's legitimate government since it returned to power.
"While they present a peaceful and moderate image on the surface, behind the scenes they implement harsh, repressive policies with no transparency or accountability," Ms Kakae said.
"Women in Afghanistan are suffering."
The Taliban's foreign ministry did not respond to the ABC's requests for comment.
Dr Khan said there were many ways people could support income-generating activities in Afghanistan without visiting, such as channelling money to women's education and employment programs that are run from abroad.
"That might be more constructive in the long run," she said.
