The bells are ringing for Windows 10, and many users who have waited are now choosing to update to Windows 11. If you’re one of them, congratulations on continued security updates and new features, but also on an operating system that has received a lot of criticism since its launch in 2021 — sometimes justified, but often exaggerated. Because when you look beyond the glassy surface with its rounded corners and the Start menu in its strict position, the differences are not that insanely big actually. It’s not like switching to Mac or Linux, not by a long shot. In many cases, these are fairly small changes that you can quickly get used to. In many cases, it’s even possible to restore or mimic old behavior, and new additions you don’t need can often be turned off or hidden. We recommend: Windows 11 Pro Relax and enjoy the ride and everything will be easier, right? Microsoft has become a bit more like Apple in one area in recent years. Where the company used to make an effort to step aside and let users choose how they want to use their computer, it now prefers you to do certain things in a certain way. Foundry The most obvious example is that you’re almost forced to sign in with a Microsoft account instead of a traditional local account. For example, it is not normally possible to choose a local account when installing the system. This can be circumvented fairly easily, but Microsoft keeps harping on about all the benefits of its account. In a way, the company is right. With a Microsoft account, for example, you don’t have to worry about registering Windows because the licence key is linked to the account and it’s easy to reactivate if you make changes to the hardware. I find this very useful as I sometimes boot my Windows installation directly and sometimes in a virtual machine — even though the hardware is completely different, the system has no problem with activation. Windows 11 Home can encrypt the local storage with Device Encryption, but it requires a Microsoft account to store a copy of the recovery key — so if you want to use a local account you need a Pro license to encrypt the disk. Further reading: Windows 10 will hit end of life in 2025. Here’s what to expect Other benefits include synchronization of settings and applications installed from the Microsoft Store between computers and automatic authentication for all other Microsoft services and applications. If you have a Microsoft 365 subscription for Office, it will be much easier if you are logged into Windows with the same Microsoft account. But if you don’t subscribe to Microsoft 365, don’t use OneDrive, have no need for disk encryption, and rarely or never change hardware, there’s no practical gain from a Microsoft account. If you prefer, you can then opt for local account anyway, even with Windows 11 Home. Create local account with Rufus Rufus The easiest way to do this when reinstalling the system and not updating from an older version is by creating an installation media with the Rufus program. Download an .iso file of Windows 11 from Microsoft and select it in Rufus. Select a connected USB stick of at least 16 gigabytes that has nothing important on it (all current files will be deleted) and click Start. In the dialog box that pops up, tick Remove requirement for an online Microsoft account. You can also tick Create a local account with username and fill in the account name you want, so you don’t have to do it during installation. The Start menu Microsoft The most visible difference in Windows 11 from its predecessor is that the Start menu and program icons have been centered in the Taskbar instead of being on the far left as in all previous versions. But it’s a quick thing to change if you prefer to have it the way it used to be (go to Settings > Customization > Start and change to left-aligned). The big difference lies in the content of the menu. As soon as you click on the Start icon, it is obvious that it is not the old familiar Start menu. There is no list of installed programs, but instead a number of preselected “favorites” are listed in a grid under the heading Pinned. Below these is an area called Recommended, where you can find recently opened and added programs, files, and more. Further reading: Windows 10 support ends soon. Here’s how to upgrade to Windows 11 You can switch off all these recommendations, but the section will still be there. Microsoft hasn’t made it easy, but at the time of writing there is a method that works in the latest version. It requires three additions to the registry. You can save the below code in a plain text file with a .reg extension and import into the Registry Editor. Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\PolicyManager\current\device\Start] `HideRecommendedSection`=dword:00000001 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\PolicyManager\current\device\Education] `IsEducationEnvironment`=dword:00000001 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Explorer] `HideRecommendedSection`=dword:00000001 After a reboot, the pinned items area fills the entire center section of the menu. Foundry With a trick, you can get rid of Recommendations and get a cleaner Start menu. What you can’t do anything about, however, is that the Start menu doesn’t show a list of all installed programs. You can still access such a list by clicking All in the top right, but there doesn’t seem to be any hidden setting to make it open that list automatically. In the narrow strip at the bottom you will see the on/off button and an icon for your account, but you can also add other shortcuts in Settings > Customisation > Start > Folders. The Taskbar Aside from the default placement in the center, the big change in the Taskbar is that programs group all their windows behind one icon instead of one icon per window. But just like the placement, you can easily restore the old behavior. You can find the different settings in Settings > Customization > Taskbar (or Taskbar Behaviors). The Explorer Foundry In Windows 11, Microsoft has given Explorer an updated interface with a modern, airier design. If you have a small screen, it can be distracting to have fewer icons. You can change that by choosing View > Show > Compact view. The menu tab area that existed before has been replaced by a narrow toolbar with only a few common functions. Other functions can be accessed via the context menu — click on Show more options to display the old context menu with all options. You won’t miss the fact that functions like copy and paste have become icons. A big improvement is that the program now has built-in tab support, so you can have multiple folders open without having multiple separate windows. Ctrl+T opens a new tab just like in browsers, and you can drag and drop a tab from the tab bar at the top to detach it into its own window. Tab layouts and tab groups Foundry Hover over the maximize button at the top right of an application window and you’ll soon see a small menu of options to quickly adjust the size of the window to take up, say, half or a third of the screen. These are called tick layouts, and if you fill the screen with two or more programs using the feature, they are automatically lumped together in something called a tick group. You can quickly view such a group of programs either by hovering over one of the included programs in the Taskbar and selecting the group there, or by clicking on the new Task View button to the right of the search button and selecting there. Foundry Unfortunately, pinned groups do not save after a restart and if you switch off one of the included programs, the group disappears. A quicker way to pin a window to one half of the screen is to grab it and hold it against the edge of the screen on the side you want it. If you already have an application taking up, say, a third of the screen, the next window will be two-thirds instead of half. Widgets and Copilot Foundry On the far left of the Taskbar (if you have the Start Menu centered — otherwise on the far right before the System Tray) is a new icon which normally shows the current weather in your location. It may also show news headlines of various kinds. Hover over or click it to reveal Windows 11’s new widget feature. To be honest, it sucks, so it’s a good thing Microsoft has made it easy to switch it off. Go to Settings > Personalization > Taskbar and turn off Widgets. Another new feature that is now also included in the latest version of Windows 10 but has been included for longer in Windows 11 is Copilot, which in a way replaces the old voice assistant Cortana. Microsoft The Copilot icon is located in the Taskbar next to the Task View icon (which shows all open windows and virtual desktops), and opens a spartan web-based interface that looks exactly like copilot.microsoft.com. The company has been criticized for not developing a proper Windows application but settling for a web view. But Copilot is one of the more competent free AI chatbots, so you can still use it to brainstorm ideas, proofread texts, and more. If you have a subscription to Copilot Pro, you can log in to access the more advanced features, but otherwise you can skip it. Unlike in Word and Excel, for example, the system doesn’t automatically log you in with the same account you log in with in Windows, but that account should show up as a preset when you try to log in. Updated classics If you come to Windows 11 today and not right after the launch, you will notice a change that has come with updates to the system. Microsoft has gone to great lengths to update some of the oldest but still most used programs in Windows: Paint and Notepad. In addition to an updated, modern interface, both programs have been enriched with AI features. It’s not that the Copilot chatbot itself has been baked in, but specific features for each program. Microsoft In Paint, you can use a new tool to remove distracting objects or blur the background of images. Users with a Copilot Plus computer can also use generative fill to add new objects to images. Notes have been given more features for rewriting text. For example, you can ask Copilot to rewrite in a formal tone or in the form of a poem. The AI can also expand or shorten text. Soon, a function for writing summaries of texts will also be added. Microsoft Other examples of applications you might not recognize are Clock — which has a new design and new features — and the brand new Media Player application, which replaces the old Windows Media Player. Key settings and where to find them Joel Lee / Foundry Microsoft has redesigned the Settings application in Windows 11. Not only have many more settings that were previously in Control Center moved into the modern application, but it also has a new interface that makes it easier to browse settings. In Windows 10, Settings had a separate list of different settings on the left for each category, and to go to a different category, you had to first go to the home screen and then click into that category. In Windows 11, the left-hand column is instead filled with a list of categories, and a menu of different kinds of settings under each category appears on the right. Click on one of these to open the settings included in that sub-category. For example, Bluetooth & devices > Devices where you will find related settings. Some more advanced settings may be hidden in another level of submenus and others behind expandable groups. For example, in Display, the Color Profile and HDR settings are in submenus, while the Multiple monitors settings are expandable. The search function in Settings is really good and if you’re looking for a particular setting and can’t remember exactly where it is, it’s often the quickest way to find it. Read...

Before we know it summer will be here, but don’t wait for the hotter days to arrive to realize that your pool is in a state of disarray. The Aiper Scuba X1, priced at $1,399, is an ideal solution to help get your pool ready for action. The Scuba X1 is essentially the full package when it comes to cleaning your pool, taking care of everything for you. Aiper’s robotic pool cleaner can provide everyday maintenance, saving you countless hours and money spent on other solutions. Each morning or evening, you can automate the Aiper Scuba X1 to scrub the pool bottom and walls free of algae and dirt, and scrub the waterline for any hair, leaves, sticks, and any other grime that blew into or otherwise ended up in the water. Smart and easy cleaning Aiper’s Scuba X1 uses a dual jet system to provide 6,600GPH suction. This glues the robotic pool cleaner to the pool floor or walls, and ensures it does a thorough job of picking up anything that shouldn’t be there, including sand and tiny pebbles. The robotic pool cleaner collects all the debris into a basket where it will stay–the industry’s first MicroMesh™ ultra-fine filter system makes sure none of it gets back into the water, where it could potentially clog the pipes. View Aiper Scuba X1 It’s not just the pool walls and floor that get the Aiper’s attention, but also its waterline. The Scuba X1 features WaveLine™ 2.0 technology to provide continuous horizontal scrubbing along the waterline, which is the exact spot where you tend to find a build-up of grease, algae, and dirt. Much like a robot vacuum does in your home, the Scuba X1 uses a ton of sensors to map out the pool and work out the best route to complete the cleaning job. It can even detect and avoid obstacles, whether that’s the pool drainage system, steps, or any weighted diving toys. Aiper Multiple cleaning modes are available, including Floor, Wall, Waterline, and Standard. You can use the dedicated Aiper app to schedule cleaning jobs and automate maintenance when you know you’ll not be using the pool. The Scuba X1 can clean up to 70,000 gallons of water per hour, and is ideal for pools up to 2,150 square foot in size. When the job is done or the battery is running low, the Scuba X1 will cleverly park itself at the waterline. You can scoop it up and place it on the wireless charging dock for a while. Better yet, you don’t need to worry about wiping it dry before recharging the robotic pool cleaner. Accessories that make the Scuba X1 even more useful A couple of Aiper accessories are available that will make pool cleaning even easier. For instance, the HydroComm Series, which includes the HydroComm Pure, HydroComm and HydroComm Pro, is a revolutionary pool product line that establishes a seamless connection between underwater pool robots and users while delivering accurate water quality data. The HydroComm Pure is a smart underwater communication device that will float in your pool and allow the robot to communicate with you even when it’s underwater. This means you can change the cleaning mode while it is submerged. Another accessory you’ll love is the $249 caddy that will make transporting the Scuba X1 from one spot to another that much easier. Where to buy Aiper Scuba X1 So there you have it — the perfect summer helper can be yours! Save $400 on Aiper Scuba X1 View Offer Read...

One side of a pedestrian crossing on Deans Ave will have speed humps, the other will not. Why? The road is governed by two different community boards – and they could not agree over safety features. Read...

The fallout from Prince Harry`s resignation from a charity he co-founded features in Monday`s papers. Read...

I’ve been using Windows for as long as I can remember. It was on the very first PC I recall using, literally on my father’s knee. But I don’t need it anymore. That’s a weird thing to say as a writer for a site named PCWorld. But it’s been a long time coming, a slow mix of broad tech trends, feeling betrayed by multiple brands, and a little bit of intention on my part.  To be clear, I still use Windows. It’s what I’m using right now to type this, on a beefy gaming desktop I assembled myself, with triple monitors and all sorts of googaws attached. But I don’t need all that anymore, and for the first time in my adult life, I can see myself transitioning to an entirely different operating system.  That’s a big deal for me, and I suspect I’m far from alone. Microsoft might want to make a note of it.  Why I don’t need Windows So here’s what I mean when I say that I don’t need Windows anymore: Every tool, program, and piece of information I rely upon is now essentially separate from whatever machine I’m using at the moment. I’m writing the words you’re reading right now in Google Docs. When I’m done, I’ll edit them in WordPress. Throughout my work day I’m talking with my coworkers and bosses on Slack, I’m chatting with my friends via text, WhatsApp, and some other platforms. I’m managing my own to-do list in Google Keep, updating my work tasks in a tool called Monday, and checking personal and professional email in Gmail and Outlook, respectively. I’m keeping an eye on news and social trends in BlueSky and The Old Reader for RSS.  I still use local files, of course. But they’re all backed up weekly via Backblaze and accessible wherever I go, with whatever hardware I have to hand. Most of the time I don’t even need that. Aside from installed game files, the odd business/tax document, and a huge library of photos, both my own and my family’s, I barely even think about the storage on my PC.  Michael Crider/Foundry Here’s a screenshot of my main Windows taskbar: Vivaldi, Gmail, Outlook, the PCWorld logo for WordPress, a certain green “P” I’ll address shortly, Slack, Explorer, Monday, Google Keep, Google Docs, YouTube. If you haven’t spotted the common thread here: every single one of these experiences is either a web tool or has a web interface. I use my favorite browser, Vivaldi, to access almost all of them, usually in a progressive web app (PWA) or merely a shortcut wrapper without a full browser interface. It’s one of my most essential features of modern browsers, allowing me to separate these tools more easily and focus on them when I need to.  Every one of them is accessible on the web, and on other platforms. I can use all of them on a tablet or even my phone, and most of the time not lose any functionality. In fact even though I work from home, I access a lot of that on my phone during the day, on the same platforms. At this point Windows is basically just a means for accessing the web in a comfortable way, on expensive hardware I’m familiar with. I think a lot of users feel the same way, especially younger folks who grew up post-iPhone. Further reading: The best Chromebooks we’ve tested Photoshop was the last holdout The very last domino to fall in this chain was image editing. I’ve been using Photoshop for over 20 years. Since I learned it in a high school media class, it’s been incredibly difficult to break myself of the reliance on it for creating article header images or editing review photos. Not that I didn’t want to — I’ve had a chip on my shoulder for Adobe for almost as long, especially after it transitioned its extremely expensive Creative Suite software to an even more expensive Creative Cloud subscription setup. It reeked of “you’ll own nothing and you’ll be happy.”  I liked owning Photoshop, and I was not and am not happy that the option was taken away. Until a few weeks ago I was still keeping an ancient copy of Creative Suite 6 from 2012 (the last time it was offered as a real purchase) alive and kicking. I’ve tried alternatives many times, including the tastelessly-titled GIMP, Affinity Photo, and Pixlr X. All are pretty good tools, but to my shame, I kept crawling back to the familiarity of Photoshop.  Foundry My memory, both conventional and muscle, made it difficult to use any of these programs, even though each one of them covers the vast majority of Photoshop’s core functions. I’ve spent years of my life using Photoshop, a few of them using it for up to eight hours a day in a print shop. It’s a hard experience for me to quantify if you’re not married to a piece of software like that — imagine it as the feeling you get from wearing someone else’s prescription glasses. It’s that kind of functional discomfort.  I’m fairly certain Adobe banks on this, and that’s why you can access Photoshop and other programs at a huge discount if you’re a student or otherwise working at a school. To paraphrase Aristotle, “Give me a high-schooler until they are 17, and I will show you the foundations of a life-long subscription customer.”  But after a long-overdue Windows reinstallation, I decided to forego the hassle of getting my trusty, rusty copy of CS6 operational. Instead I tried out Photopea, an online raster image editor with a shameless and wonderful clone of the Photoshop interface.  Attack of the Clones I’ve tried Photopea a few times before, with this exact aim in mind. And I couldn’t quite get it to stick. To be honest I can’t recall if it was a lack of performance in the tool, or simply that it wasn’t as capable as CS6 even over a decade later. But whichever part of the equation has changed — the performance in a modern browser on a powerful desktop, the server-side performance, or the image editing options being improved — it just clicked.  Now I’m using Photopea (pronounced “photo-pee” if you’re wondering, but the creators don’t really care) in place of Photoshop for all my work purposes. I don’t even have the latter installed, though I still have my copy just in case. I’m paying $5 a month for the ad-free version of Photopea, which still rankles my “just let me buy it” heart a bit. But the fact that it’s completely free with ads, not to mention far, far cheaper than an Adobe subscription even if you banish them, is a balm to my skinflint soul.  Photopea’s interface apes Photoshop closely enough that I can use it without problems. And yes, I used it to edit this story’s header image, and even this screenshot. Photopea And after all, Photopea is a web tool hosted on a server — it at least has a basic justification for charging a subscription. Nothing stops Adobe from selling a stand-alone, non-subscription version of Photoshop. Except greed. Photopea is a clone of Photoshop, not a perfect replacement. There are things it can’t do, notably load up custom fonts without a lot of extra steps, that would make it unsuitable if I were still doing graphics full time. And to be perfectly honest, I’m not quite as good at it as I used to be with Photoshop. Some of the effects I’d throw together with ease just don’t look as good. That could be equal parts my own unfamiliarity with the deeper tools and the web-based program’s lack of Photoshop’s most powerful, deeply buried options. Maybe I’ll get back to my old expertise in time. But I’m not a graphic designer anymore. I’m a keyboard jockey who needs a lot of cropping for PR images, a bit of background work, clone-stamp and color adjustments for original photos, that sort of thing. And I can do all that, without sacrificing speed or most capability, and without local software. I can do it on any machine, from a laptop or a tablet or even my phone in a pinch (with a mouse and keyboard), and I can log in on all of those to get access to it ad-free.  Samsung Oh, and even if you prefer to pay Adobe’s exorbitant prices, you might still not need a local installation of the program. Photoshop has an online version now, very similar to Photopea, included with the subscription. Everything I need to do my job, and most of whatever else I want, is completely divorced from Windows. Or if not divorced, then at least amicably separated. I realize that a lot of people got to this place before I did, people younger than me, older than me, both more tech-savvy and less. But it still feels like a personal milestone. Gaming still lives on Windows…for now I’m still using Windows 11, warts and all, even while I moan about ever-encroaching advertising in allegedly premium software, not to mention the hard upsell for “AI” tools I don’t want. These are where Microsoft is hoping to get that real (read: recurring) money out of me, and where I refuse to let it go. But Windows is still my personal and professional home, even as I increasingly “live” on my phone, just like everyone else.  Gaming is a big part of this. I own a Switch and a PS5 and a nice tablet and a few other wingdings for games — over a recent vacation I even played through Skies of Arcadia to the end on an Android emulator. But PC gaming is where I really sink my teeth into the medium, and that’s unlikely to change. Not just because I like building desktop PCs (again, check the name of the site up top!), but because Steam is my primary means of acquiring and playing games.  Lenovo/Valve And even that is not a sacred cow I’m unwilling to eat. Valve is making Steam its own OS, spreading into hardware from partners like Lenovo and Asus, and I think it has a legitimate shot at dethroning Windows as the home of PC gaming. To say nothing of trends that let you access your games anywhere, including Nvidia’s cloud-powered GeForce Now (which plays my Steam games!) and Microsoft’s own Xbox Game Pass streaming. I’ve used both of them on the go, enjoyably if far less smoothly than on my fancy-pants desktop at home, and been keenly aware of their platform-agnostic nature.  I played the PC version of Fortnite, complete with mouse and keyboard, by using my Samsung phone’s DeX desktop mode, a USB-C monitor, and GeForce Now. Hey, at least one tiny sliver of the future doesn’t suck.   A new world of options This newfound freedom is liberating, if only in a consumer sense. For the first time I can seriously consider a Mac or a Chromebook laptop, safe in the knowledge that everything I need will be accessible with barely even an adjustment to my routine. An iPad Pro, while not my first choice, would probably be doable. I could even see myself trying out Linux on the desktop, though I confess I’d probably keep it dual-booting at first. And maybe using SteamOS or a derivative like Bazzite, just to satiate my degenerate gaming needs.  I don’t need Windows anymore. There’s a pretty good chance you don’t, either, or at least that it’s easier than ever to work around it. I think you should keep it in mind…especially if you’re a Microsoft executive who wants me to buy a new laptop.  Further reading: Windows survival skills: 8 things every PC user should know how to do Read...

Sydney trainer has had plenty of success so far this year and can return to the winner’s circle with several leading chances in the Wellington Boot and Cup. Read...

Looking for the easiest path to smart lighting? Screw a smart bulb into a socket. Done! If you’re looking for something with more elegance and sophistication, however, you should replace the switches in your walls. Besides, the most common drawback of relying on smart bulbs with conventional switches is that someone inevitably turns the switch off. Boom! Your expensive smart bulb is now a dumb bulb that can’t be controlled with voice commands or be included in any lighting automations you’ve set up. If there’s a downside to converting to smart in-wall dimmers and switches, it’s installing them. Don’t worry, it’s an easy DIY project. Be aware, however, that most–but certainly not all–smart controls depend on the presence of a neutral wire in the box. The neutral wire will supply constant power to the device’s radio, even when the load it’s controlling is turned off. If you’re not comfortable dealing with high-voltage wiring, hire an electrician for the job. Now, don’t think we’re besmirching smart bulbs. They have their place, too; if for no other reason than being able to change the color of the lighting in a room. I’ve lived with smart lighting in my home for more than 15 years, and I can’t imagine turning my lights on and off without the options of using a voice command, in response to motion, on schedules, or with a smartphone app. You won’t be disappointed in the results. Need more information before you choose a specific product? We can answer all your questions about choosing the right type of smart dimmer or switch at the preceding link. Why you should trust us TechHive’s editors and contributors have been testing smart switches and dimmers for more than that 15 years, installing them in our own homes to gain truly real-world experience before we commit to our opinions. We continuously test the latest smart dimmers and switches, along with the apps that control them. We blend those experiences with our general knowledge of smart home devices, so we’re able to assess how well these products integrate with other smart devices you’ll want to use in your home. TechHive’s favorite smart dimmers and switches Best smart dimmer overall — Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and the Lutron Caséta ecosystem) Pros Part of the robust Lutron Caséta smart home ecosystem Broadly compatible with other smart products and systems Doesn’t depend on a neutral wire Cons You must have Lutron’s Caséta Smart Hub wired to your home network Lutron’s uncertain stance on Matter Best Prices Today: Retailer Price $69.95 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket $69.95 at Amazon Why we like the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and its Caséta ecosystem) Lutron built its own smart home ecosystem based on its proprietary Clear Connect technology. By definition, proprietary standards far less open than standards like Matter, Wi-Fi, Zigbee, or Z-Wave; however, the Caséta Smart Hub you’ll need to connect Caseéta products to your home network supports Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant, IFTTT, Samsung SmartThings, and Sonos speakers, and more. And all that is in addition to Lutron’s own lighting products, smart shades and smart blinds, ceiling-fan controllers, motion sensors, and other products. With that degree of compatibility, it’s difficult to imagine a complex smart home routine that couldn’t be accomplished. Who should buy the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer (and its Caséta ecosystem) Anyone looking to incorporate lighting controls into a robust smart home network should consider the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer and a Caséta Smart Hub. Lights can switch on when someone rings a doorbell or automatically turn off when you leave home. If you have a Sonos speaker, you can automatically play music when you return home. While Lutron’s technology is not Matter compatible today, Lutron is a member of the Connectivity Standards Alliance that is responsible for developing Matter, so it’s possible that Caséta could be Matter compatible one day. Given the broad compatibility the Caséta ecosystem already enjoys, that ultimately might not make a difference. Lutron’s original Caséta dimmer switch is an equally good product and costs slightly less, but it looks a bit busier. Read our full Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer review Best budget-priced smart dimmer — Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch, Motion-Activated (model ES20M) Pros Endlessly tweakable motion-sensing options Wiring design makes for easy installation Attractive design aesthetic Cons Requires a neutral wire Kasa app needs to be modernized Motion sensing range is a bit weak Best Prices Today: Retailer Price $22.99 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket $22.99 at Amazon Why we like the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch (model ES20M) TP-Link’s Kasa Smart Wi-Fi dimmer switch is remarkably inexpensive, and its Wi-Fi support means that it doesn’t require a smart hub to work. Users have immense control over how its motion- and light-sensing features work, with full support for fade-in/out options, motion sensing, and ambient light detection. Who should buy the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch (model ES20M) The low price makes the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer an attractive alternative, but buyers will need to have access to a neutral wire at the installation point. This dimmer will not work with Apple HomeKit or 3-way circuits, but if you don’t need either of those functions, the Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer is an absolute bargain. Don’t have a neutral wire in the box where you want to install a motion-activated dimmer? Consider the GE Cync Dimmer, below. Read our full Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch, Motion-Activated (model ES20M) review Best Wi-Fi smart switch/dimmer — GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch Pros Motion sensing works great Very easy to set up Can control Cync smart bulbs even if they aren’t wired to the switch Available in a version that doesn’t require a neutral wire Cons Ugly industrial design Motion sensing settings aren’t always intuitive Pricey for this category Best Prices Today: Retailer Price $52.99 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket $52.99 at Amazon Why we like the GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch This isn’t the prettiest dimmer on the market, but GE Lighting’s Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch sure packs the features. An onboard motion sensor can turn the light switch on when the room is occupied, and an ambient light sensor will stop that from happening if there’s enough daylight that the extra light isn’t needed. The switch can also control GE Lighting’s Cync smart bulbs, even if they’re not physically wired to the dimmer. Who should buy the GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch The GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch doesn’t require a smart home hub, and GE now offers users a choice of a cheaper version that does require a neutral wire at the installation location, and a 3-wire version that doesn’t depend on a neutral wire. The technology is still up-to-date, but the Cync Dimmer + Motion Sensor Switch has seen a substantial price drop since its introduction in 2020. Read our full GE Cync Dimmer + Motion Smart Switch review Best Zigbee smart switch/dimmer — Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer Pros SimpleWire technology effectively eases installation hassles Slim profile might help some users with space management in the electrical box Smooth installation and no operational trouble Cons Requires a neutral wire Broadsheet user manual will cause your eyes to glaze over Dependent on a third-party smart home hub with a Zigbee radio Best Prices Today: Retailer Price $40.49 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket $40.49 at Amazon Why we like the Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer The Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer is perfect for less-experienced homeowners who want to DIY their smart lighting. The slimline design isn’t tough to shove back into the box when you install it, and Jasco has given the Enbrighten enough onboard intelligence to distinguish the line wire from the load wire, so you don’t need to worry about mixing them up. You will, however, need a neutral wire at the installation location. Who should buy the Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer You’ll need a smart home hub that supports the Zigbee protocol. Several models of the Amazon Echo and Echo Show are well-known examples, but there are dozens of options, including the Samsung SmartThings Station, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub, or the Hubitat Elevation. You should be aware, however, that Zigbee support does not automatically mean Matter support. This device is not Matter compatible. Read our full Jasco Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Dimmer review Most sophisticated smart switch/dimmer — Brilliant Smart Home Control Pros Touchscreen and built-in camera adds incredible flexibility Alexa onboard; plus great third-party integrations, including Ring and Apple HomeKit Impressive build quality Cons Devilishly complex to set up properly (at least in my house) Very expensive: $399 for single switch panel, $449 for a 2-switch panel, $499 for a 3-switch panel Why we like the Brilliant Smart Home Control The touchscreen and the touch-sensitive sliders on the Brilliant Smart Home Control smart switch/dimmer gives it some impressive capabilities, including the capacity to stream video from Ring and Google Nest video doorbells and control Sonos multi-room audio systems. Don’t want to mess with the wiring inside your home’s walls? The company offers a model that you can hang on the wall and plug into a nearby electrical outlet. Who should buy the Brilliant Smart Home Control As you’d expect, all those sexy Brilliant Control features come at a price—both in terms of cost and installation complexity—but if you want the most sophisticated smart home controls on the market, this is it. Read our full Brilliant Smart Home Control review Best multi-function smart switch/dimmer — Leviton Decora Smart Voice Dimmer with Amazon Alexa (model DWVAA) Pros Alexa with no footprint, exposed power cord, or wall wart No smart home hub required Lots of options for lighting control and integration with other smart home devices Cons Wi-Fi dependent, so range could be an issue Operates on 2.4GHz networks only Doesn’t support Alexa’s whisper mode Tinny speaker, and it can’t be paired with a Bluetooth speaker No HomeKit or Google Assistant support Best Prices Today: Retailer Price $49.07 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket $49.07 at Amazon Why we like the Leviton Decora Smart Voice Wi-Fi Dimmer with Alexa Just how many features can you cram in a single-gang light switch? Leviton squeezes a Wi-Fi radio, a dimmer switch, and an entire Amazon Alexa-compatible smart speaker into this device. Yes, Ecobee pulled off a similar trick much earlier, but with an on/off switch, not a dimmer. Leviton also has a deeper catalog of other Wi-Fi components—switches, dimmers, ceiling fan controllers, multi-button controllers, and more—to go with it. Who should buy the Leviton Decora Smart Voice Wi-Fi Dimmer with Alexa If your home revolves around Amazon’s Alexa voice assistant, installing this dimmer in your wall will eliminate the need to put an Echo smart speaker in the same room. Leviton has added Google Home support since we first reviewed this product; Apple Home users, however, should look elsewhere. Read our full Leviton Decora Smart Voice Dimmer with Amazon Alexa (model DWVAA) review How to choose the right smart dimmers and switches for your home You’ll need to make a raft of decisions before you choose which smart switches to install in your home, and your choices will be influenced by everything from the type of wiring in your walls to what flavor of smart home system you have now or plan to install later. Here’s what you need to know in roughly the order you’ll need to decide. Neutral wire requirement: Many smart switches and dimmers require the presence of a neutral wire in the electrical box inside the wall, in addition to the line (power from the circuit-breaker panel), load (power to the light to be controlled), and ground (a low-resistance path for electricity to flow to the ground in the event of a malfunction) wires. Smart switches have radios that must be constantly powered, and the neutral wire is usually what supplies that juice. While all homes have neutral wires, many older homes don’t have a neutral wire in every box. If you’re not sure if there’s a neutral wire at the location you want to install a smart switch, this how-to story will help you figure it out. If you don’t have a neutral wire, Lutron’s Caséta and Diva smart dimmers and the GE Cync Dimmer (3-wire version) are among the few smart switches that do not require one. Most smart switches depend on the presence of a neutral wire to supply energy to their radios, but many homes built prior to the 1980s don’t have a neutral wire in every box. GE Cync and Lutron Caséta are among the few smart switches that don’t depend a neutral wire. GE Lighting Single- or multi-pole: If the light you wish to control is connected to just one switch, then you’ll need to replace it with a single-pole smart switch. If more than one switch controls that load—switches on opposite sides of a room, for example—then you’ll need to replace it with a multi-pole (aka 3-way) smart switch. This typically means that you’ll also need to buy a companion switch or switches for the other end(s) of the circuit. There are a few exceptions to this rule, so check the documentation accompanying whichever smart switch you decide to buy before you install it. Control protocol: You’ll undoubtedly want to control your smart lighting with your smartphone or tablet, and most people will also want to turn lights on and off with voice commands spoken to a smart speaker, such as an Amazon Echo or a Nest Hub. But to do that, the smart switch you buy must have some way of connecting to your home network (which explains why Bluetooth smart switches can’t talk to smart speakers). Some smart switches connect directly to your Wi-Fi network, while others require a bridge to your router. If you’ve invested in a smart home system—Samsung SmartThings, Hubitat Elevation, Vivint Smart Home, or any other ecosystem—you’ll want to make sure that the smart switch you buy is compatible with it. These are the most common communication protocols you’ll encounter. Bluetooth smart switches are controlled directly by an app on your smartphone or tablet. Bluetooth smart lighting is simple, because you don’t need a hub or a connection to your home network. That isolation also makes it secure, because you must be within about 30 feet of the switch to pair with it. On the other hand, authorized users also must be within 30 feet of a Bluetooth switch to control it, and you can’t control the switch when you’re away from home (although most Bluetooth switches can be controlled according to a pre-programmed schedule). The other major limitation of Bluetooth switches is that they can’t be controlled by smart speakers or smart home hubs, which generally rely on one of the other wireless protocols described here. As a result, Bluetooth-only switches have become relatively rare. Lutron Clear Connect is a proprietary wireless protocol used by Lutron Caséta Wireless smart home devices, including switches, dimmers, ceiling fan controllers, occupancy sensors, motorized blinds and shades, and battery-powered remote controls. You can also control a limited number of third-party devices with Lutron’s app—ranging from thermostats to Wi-Fi speakers—and incorporate them into smart home “scenes.” Clear Connect operates independently of your Wi-Fi network, but you must hardwire a Lutron Smart Bridge to your router to use it. You can control Lutron Caséta devices via Lutron’s app, with voice commands spoken to smart speakers, and from mobile devices anywhere you have broadband access. Some smart home systems, including Samsung SmartThings, can also incorporate Lutron’s smart home products. Matter is the most recent smart home standard. It aims to be an overarching standard incorporating several other smart home standards, including Thread, Wi-Fi, and Zigbee. Matter’s promise is that it will one day unite all the various smart home ecosystems: Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Home, and Samsung SmartThings among them. Matter could become more important over time, but we don’t consider the absence of Matter support or compatibility to be a reason to avoid any smart home product today. Thread is a low-power networking technology that’s a core element of the Matter smart home standard. It’s similar to Z-Wave and Zigbee in that Thread devices can talk directly to each other; unlike those standards, Thread doesn’t depend on a central hub. Matter devices can use either Thread or Wi-Fi, but battery-powered devices are more likely to use Thread because of its low power requirements. To access Thread devices from the internet, you’ll need to have a Thread border router, such as the Aqara Hub M3, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub; several models of Amazon Echo smart speakers and Echo Show smart displays; an Apple TV 4K (2nd-gen and up), an Apple HomePod or HomePod mini; some later-model Eero routers; a Nest Wifi or Nest Wifi Pro; or a Samsung SmartThings Station. This is not a complete list. Wi-Fi has gained a foothold in smart lighting thanks to the rise of mesh routers that blanket your home with network coverage. The attraction of Wi-Fi smart switches is that they generally don’t require a hub or a bridge to connect to your router (although Leviton does have some Wi-Fi products that communicate over a proprietary network with a plug-in bridge that connects them to Wi-Fi. While Wi-Fi is incorporated into the Matter smart home standard, that doesn’t mean every Wi-Fi device is automatically Matter compatible. Z-Wave This is a wireless mesh network technology in which each node on the network is also a repeater that can forward commands to other Z-Wave devices nearby. It operates in the unlicensed 800- to 900MHz radio spectrum (specifically, 908.42MHz in North America). Its low power requirement means it can be incorporated into battery-operated devices that cannot be plugged directly into an electrical circuit, including door/window sensors, smart locks, water leak detectors, and motion sensors in addition to smart dimmers and switches. You’ll need a smart home hub, such as a Samsung SmartThings, to act as a bridge to your Wi-Fi network. There are fewer Z-Wave products available today, compared to the standard’s heyday, and some of the Z-Wave dimmers and switches we’ve reviewed from Jasco and Leviton are no longer in production, but some other brands are still available. Note that Z-Wave Long Range (LR) family of chips that was introduced in 2020 do not operate on a mesh network. They use a star network topology in which each Z-Wave LR node communicates directly with the Z-Wave hub that’s connected to your router for internet access. Zigbee This wireless mesh network technology is very similar to Z-Wave, but it operates in the unlicensed 2.4GHz radio spectrum (same as single-band Wi-Fi). Like Z-Wave, Zigbee has a lower power requirement and can be incorporated into both battery and line-powered devices, ranging from sensors to smart switches. And as with Z-Wave, you’ll need a smart home hub or some other kind of bridge to connect Zigbee devices to your home network. This could be something as simple as an Amazon Echo Plus, which has an integrated Zigbee radio, or it could be on the order of a Samsung SmartThings hub, which has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios onboard. Like Wi-Fi, Zigbee is part of the Matter smart home standard; also like Wi-Fi, not every Zigbee device is automatically Matter compatible. Lutron’s Aurora Smart Dimmer prevents a conventional toggle switch from shutting off the power to any Philips Hue smart bulbs that are connected to the switch. It can also wirelessly control those bulbs, including dimming them by rotating the knob. Lutron Switch mechanism: Since most people control smart switches and dimmers with voice commands, they soon discover that they rarely physically interact with the devices in their walls. But you’ll want to consider the type of mechanism the smart switch uses if for no other reason than to ensure its aesthetic matches the rest of your home. These are the most common types you’ll encounter. Relatively few manufacturers make smart switches that look like this type of old-fashioned toggle switch. Michael Brown/Foundry Rocker (aka paddle) This type of switch has a wide plastic panel that rocks back and forth when pressed to turn the controlled load on and off (one side of the switch raises when the other is depressed). These modern-looking switches hug the wall and are very easy to operate. Since a command issued over the air will override whatever physical state the switch is otherwise in, smart rocker switches typically don’t physically flip, so there’s no confusion when you see a lit bulb when the switch is ostensibly in the “off” position. A smart dimmer switch might have a secondary control—a vertical slider or a horizontal rocker—for adjusting brightness Toggle A toggle switch operates by moving a lever up and down (flipping the lever up turns the controlled light on, and flipping it down turns it off). These types of switches tend to look more old-fashioned than rocker switches, but you can find smart versions of them if you want something that at least resembles the other switches you have in your walls. As with smart rocker switches, they generally don’t completely change physical appearance when switched on or off. Touch High-end smart switches and dimmers feature touch-sensitive surfaces. Typically made of glass, touch-sensitive smart switches and dimmers are usually backlit by one or more LEDs that can be multiple colors. The touch sensitivity can be as simple as touch to turn the switch on and touch again to turn it off, or it can be as complex as displaying a user interface that supports finger swipes for calling up different lighting scenes or control elements. Needless to say, these types of smart switches and dimmers cost considerably more than simple plastic devices. Brilliant’s touchscreen panel lets you see and talk with a person at your door when a visitor activates your Ring Video Doorbell. Christopher Null/Foundry Wiring connections: Smart switches and dimmers tend to be larger than their dumb counterparts, so you should consider how the new switch will fit in your existing electrical box. This is particularly important if you’re installing multiple smart switches next to each other in a single box. Remember that there will typically be at least four wires to deal with—line, load, neutral, and ground—and that there will also be a traveler wire if you’re dealing with a multi-pole circuit. It can be challenging to stuff all those wires and the new switch back into the box. These are the most common types of electrical connections you’ll encounter in smart switches. Backstabs These are holes in the back of the switch into which you’ll push (“stab”) the appropriate solid copper wires coming out of the wall. Pigtails Some switches have short electrical wires emerging from the back of the switch that you’ll attach to the wires coming out of the wall, using wire nuts to secure them. This is generally the easiest technique, but if the switch is deep, it can be a challenge to pack the extra wires and the wire nuts tightly enough into the box so that the switch mounts flush against the wall. It can be particularly difficult if the box has other devices in it. Terminals With this type of switch, you’ll wind the wires coming out of the wall around flat screws on the sides of the switch and then tighten the screws down. This technique presents less of a challenge when it comes to pushing the wires and the switch back into the box, but the wires can be stiff and you’ll need to be careful to ensure the stripped wire doesn’t come into contact with stripped wires connected to adjacent switches in the box or the box itself, if it’s metal. Pigtails and wire nuts are one common way to connect a smart switch to your existing in-wall wiring.Christopher Null/Foundry How we evaluate smart dimmers and switches How easy are the dimmers and switches to install? Can a relatively inexperienced homeowner handle the wiring, or will they need to hire a professional electrician? What smart home platforms does the device support? The more protocols an individual switch or dimmer can work with, the more flexible it will be as smart home technology evolves in the future. Is there an app? If so, how polished is the interface and how easy is it to use the app to control the dimmers and switches. If they’re motion-activated, how reliably do they respond to movement in a room. If the dimmer and switch have added features like cameras or speakers, we look at how those features perform when compared to standalone devices that perform those functions. Other smart dimmers and switches we’ve reviewed Eaton Wi-Fi smart universal dimmer: Eaton is a very big name in the electric market, but this device failed to impress. GE Cync Smart Dimmer Light Switch: This is a decidedly odd-looking smart dimmer, but it’s a great choice if you don’t have a neutral wire in the box where you want to install it. It connects directly to your Wi-Fi network, so there’s no smart home hub requirement. Leviton Decora Smart Zigbee dimmer (model DG6HD): This is a Zigbee dimmer, but not a Matter-compatible one (to be fair, it predates Matter by several years). It’s a solid product, but its size gave us installation trouble. It’s worth noting, however, that it appears to be out of production at Leviton. Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi (model DW6HD-1BZ): This was the first generation of Leviton’s Decorea Smart Wi-Fi products; as such, it has been discontinued. We have not yet reviewed the second-generation product that replaced it. Treatlife Smart Dimmer: This incredibly inexpensive connects to your 2.4GHz Wi-Fi network, but its performance is commensurate with its price. Treatlife 3-way Smart Dimmer (model DS02): This Treatlife product is much better than the one reviewed above. Its primary claim to fame is that it can be installed on a 3-way circuit without needing matching (aka companion) switches on the other ends of the circuit. Sinopé Smart Adaptive Phase Dimmer (model DM2550ZB): This Zigbee dimmer is very expensive, but the company’s smart adaptive phase dimming all but eliminates the risk that a connected load–LED lighting in particular–will flicker or turn off prematurely as it’s dimmed. Wemo Smart Dimmer with Thread (model WDS070): Wemo’s dimmer supports Thread, so it must support Matter, right? Well, no it doesn’t; and while you’ll still find this product available at Amazon and a few other places, it seems Belkin has discontinued it. Read...

Microsoft is constantly tweaking and updating Windows 11, with a big new update at least once a year, plus incremental updates for functionality and security. But when you’ll see any particular feature can be a crapshoot. Microsoft is trying to clear that up with a new roadmap site. The dedicated page shows a long list of features in development, indicating which ones are currently in the Windows Insider Program (that’s what Microsoft calls a beta, they’re not great at names), which ones are gradually rolling out via active updates, and which are now widely available. Microsoft You can also apply a few filters, including filters for features that are only coming to Copilot+ PCs, which seems pretty useful if you don’t have one. For an even more granular look, you can filter by release version (23H2 and 24H2 at the moment), and the Insider Canary, Dev, and Beta channels in addition to the full retail. It’s a neat tool, if a bit dry at the moment. You’ll probably still want to use the search bar (or just Ctrl-F in your browser) if you’re looking for news on a specific feature. But it should be much easier to determine which version of Windows you want to be on if you’re looking for something in particular, without needing to dive into the deep preview update text. Read...

Based on a number of new features being rolled up within new “Release Preview” updates for Windows 11, Microsoft appears to be readying a push for AI-powered enhancements in the coming weeks. Although Microsoft typically reserves major feature releases for the fall, April 2025 is a key month for the software giant because it marks the 50th anniversary of the company’s founding. With two preview releases of Windows 11, Microsoft has tipped off what features your PC will be receiving soon—most likely in April. Both Windows 11 Build 26100.3613 and Windows 11 Build 26100.3624 are part of the Release Preview Channel for Windows 11 Insiders, meaning you can try them out early yourself by joining the Windows Insider program. If you do, note that Microsoft isn’t releasing all of these features in one fell swoop. Some of them will be released “normally” while others are rolled out in a “gradual” cadence. Optional non-security feature releases typically launch on the fourth week of every month, usually on a Tuesday. (In this case, that’d be April 22, 2025.) Those features then typically roll out to everyone else about two weeks later. Nothing guarantees this timeline, of course. It’s our best guess based on past releases and when they’ve occurred. Remember, though, Microsoft’s emphasis is on the “new”—and the sexiest new Windows features use AI. That means you’ll need a Copilot+ PC, and Copilot+ PCs mean NPUs. (But NPUs are only available on a subset of PCs, and even then certain features are only available for certain NPUs.) Basically, if you want everything that Microsoft has to offer, you should buy a laptop with a Qualcomm Snapdragon X Elite chip in it, like the Microsoft Surface Pro 11th Edition. New AI features coming to Windows 11 Right now, it appears that semantic search will be Windows’ flagship AI feature for the near future. Semantic search, which was first shown off back in January, allows you to forego the exact word or title you’re searching for and describe it instead. For example, you could search for “photo of children at school” without knowing the exact file name. For years, you’ve searched for “keywords” to find what you’re looking for. Microsoft wants you to break that habit.Microsoft Semantic search may also help offset Copilot’s inability to monitor and control your PC, something that was originally planned but fell by the wayside. In its place, you’ll be able to describe what you want Windows to do inside the Settings menu. Put another way, semantic search will be a part of Windows Search as well as Settings. Unfortunately, semantic search will only be available for Windows on Snapdragon PCs; users with AMD- or Intel-powered Copilot+ PCs will have to wait. But since it will run locally on your PC, you won’t have to be connected to the internet for it to work. Microsoft is also kinda-sorta bringing semantic search to photos—but only in File Explorer, not the Photos app. The Photos app already allows you to search via words like “snow” to identify photos of snowy mountains. Going forward, File Explorer will now allow you to search using words like “summer picnic,” Microsoft says. Semantic search will apply to the Windows 11 Settings app, too.Microsoft File Explorer, like Photos, will now show photos stored on OneDrive in the cloud alongside photos stored locally on your PC. It’s not quite clear whether Microsoft is using the PC’s NPU to perform these searches… but it must be since this feature is reserved for Snapdragon PCs, too. It’s “coming soon” to Copilot+ PCs with AMD and Intel inside. That said, if you do own a Copilot+ PC powered by either AMD or Intel processors, here’s some good news: live captions and real-time translation are going to be available. Live Captions first debuted in the Windows 11 2022 Update, though it used the power of the CPU back then, not the NPU. Now, up to 44 different languages can be captured and translated into English on AMD and Intel Copilot+ PCs via video calls, recordings, and streamed content. If you own a Snapdragon PC, the opposite is true: you can now translate English (or 25 other languages) into Chinese using real-time translation. Chris Hoffman / IDG Your voice can also be used to better effect in Voice Access, too. One of the issues I’ve had with Voice Access is that it’s unbearably rigid—you either know the commands or you don’t. Now, Microsoft is using AI to “loosen up” Voice Access by allowing you to describe what you want to do instead of using the exact syntax. Chinese support for Voice Access is being added, too. If you use an app with support for Windows Studio Effects, you should see an icon on the system tray that shows when Windows Studio Effects is in use. It’s a bit redundant since Microsoft already indicated that the icon would appear in a February Windows update. Other changes coming to Windows Microsoft is also changing how it monitors your system. You may start seeing “cards” that show off your PC’s key specifications, such as the CPU, memory, and storage. This is a reorganization of sorts since the Windows Settings app already consolidates these features, but these “top cards” will simply pull this information out and put them at the top of the Settings > System > About portion of Windows Settings. Microsoft also says that it will track CPU utilization a bit differently in Task Manager, though it’s not clear how this will play out. A separate, hidden tab will show off the old way of measuring it. Microsoft You’ll see new ways of interacting with Windows, too. Laptops place a keyboard right under your fingers, but desktop PCs don’t. You might end up in a situation where your desktop’s keyboard is off to the side (perhaps if you’ve turned your PC into an arcade or virtual pinball cabinet). In that case, you can use a new Xbox gamepad keyboard interface, where you can use an Xbox gamepad to type just like on the console. A new emoji interface is being added, too. You might know that you can access the Windows emoji menu via the Windows key + Semicolon shortcut, but apparently no one else does given that Microsoft is adding a new system tray icon to the taskbar to highlight the emoji panel. Chris Hoffman / IDG Microsoft is also working with developers to add improved widgets, something that’s been promised for a while now. But one change you should see in this release, given what Microsoft has announced, is greater control over which widgets you see on your lock screen. How will that work? We’ll know soon enough. We’d like to think that features such as Windows’ new battery icons will be released soon—but those are still stuck in the Dev Channel, so they probably still have a ways to go. We also haven’t heard much about Windows Recall lately either, which has already been released for testing. Remember, there’s always more to come. Read...

At a glanceExpert`s Rating Pros File, partition, and drive imaging to common VHD format Full-fledged partition manager Disaster recovery Optional retro command-line and character-based recovery interface Cons Needs to properly vet destination space Minor visual bugs and workflow peccadilloes Our Verdict R-Drive Image offers a ton of great backup features, including disaster recovery and newly expanded support for all the most popular online storage services. Price When Reviewed This value will show the geolocated pricing text for product undefined Best Pricing Today Retailer Price R-tools Technology $44.95 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket Best Prices Today: R-Drive Image Retailer Price R-tools Technology $44.95 View Deal Price comparison from over 24,000 stores worldwide Product Price Price comparison from Backmarket I’ve truly enjoyed reviewing the various iterations of R-Drive Image — it’s been my go-to imaging/backup utility for nearly two decades. It’s a great program, and has still never created a bad backup in my hands. However, bugs, while rapidly fixed once reported, have reared their head in my last few looks. Including one that created an endless failure loop in 7.3. Come on now… What are R-Drive Image 7.3’s features? The big news for this dot upgrade is expanded support for cloud storage services — including the Amazon S3 and S3-compatible repositories, something I bemoaned the lack of in my review of version 7.2. Okay, bemoaned is a bit strong. Wished for? R-Drive Image’s main page. Also new in the cloud arena is support for Microsoft Azure and Google Cloud, though only in R-Drive’s pricier Technician and Corporate tiers. Most end-users will be more interested in Dropbox, OneDrive, and the cheaper S3 and S3-compatibles, which the consumer program supports flawlessly. The salient R-Drive Image features include: file, folder, partition, and whole drive imaging in both proprietary and non-proprietary VHD/VHDX formats; copying and cloning discs; a full-featured partition editor; and a bootable recovery disk with a choice between the modern and old-school, character-based interfaces. The R-Drive Image boot disk interface. The character-based interface (shown below) on the recovery disk is still my favorite for freaking out my friends and IT customers. Its appearance is as dated as my own, but it too is a hoot. Most users will prefer the modern interface shown in the previous image. You don’t have to use this retro-interface on the recovery disc. I do, but most users will use the one that mimics the Windows version. There are also Tasks, R-TT speak for jobs. These feature very granular scheduling and even media rotation in the pricier versions. Scripts are the same thing as tasks, but for command-line use. Yes, you can use R-Drive the old-fashioned way. Another feature I love in R-Drive Image 7.x is its replications. These are copies of the image saved to other destinations. In other words, you can define one data set to back up, and back it up to multiple locations using the same “script,” aka job. The R-Drive Image task schedular. If you’re looking for the ability to back up non-Windows computers, the recovery disc allows you to image FAT/exFAT, NTFS, ReFS / ReFS2+ (Resilient File System, Windows 2012/2016 Server), HFS/HFS+/APFS, XFS, Little and Big Endian variants of UFS1/UFS2 (FreeBSD/OpenBSD/NetBSD/Solaris), and Ext2/Ext3/Ext4 FS (Linux). Whew. That said, Apple, a tough-to-love company, makes it nearly impossible to boot from unsigned media these days, so backing up your Mac using R-Drive Image no longer works. I mention this because I tried and was disappointed that the FAT32 USB boot stick didn’t even show up. One R-Drive Image complaint is that while the program supports mounted network drives, WebDAV, and FTP, there’s no way to add files from a network location that’s not mounted as a drive letter by Windows. You can type in a network URL in the file name field for the destination though, and R-TT was asking me how to ameliorate this lack as I wrote this article. Expect this addition soon. My only other complaint is that the program will mildly warn you, but not stop you from trying to write an image to a destination that doesn’t have room for it. The latter became particularly apparent as a flaw during testing. More on that in the performance discussion below. You can define one data set to back up, and back it up to multiple locations using the same ‘script,’ aka job. How easy to use is R-Drive Image 7.3? For basic operations, R-Drive Image is quite easy to use. It walks you wizard-style through selecting files/folders, drives, or partitions, then where you want to write the resulting image. Creating recovery discs is simple as well. Where the program could use a bit of work is in the Tasks/Scripts area. The way they’re portrayed in the interface, it’s not immediately apparent that tasks are for the GUI and scripts are for command-line use. Yes, RTFM. You can specify media rotation options for any task. But only in the pricier professional versions of the program. I certainly appreciate that you can save ad-hoc jobs as command-line scripts, but it would be nice if you could save them as a task as well. Tasks, or recurring jobs, can only be created in the Tasks pane. This is also where you’ll find the retention options and scheduling. I’d also like to see an “Execute” button in the task bar. As it stands, you must right-click over the task to run it. R-Drive Image doesn’t make heavy use of right-click context menus, so this wasn’t something I immediately thought of. Double-clicking starts editing. I would’ve reversed those choices. How much is R-Drive image 7.3? The end-user version of R-Drive Image, good for one computer is $45. The transferrable-seat Technician version is $299, the Corporate version I tested is $189, and there are multi-seat and transferrable-seat versions for $500 and $900, respectively. You can see the full list and the feature differences at this link. How does R-Drive Image 7.3 perform? You may notice that this section of the review isn’t titled “How fast is…?” That’s because reliability and bug-free operation are every bit as important as how quickly backups are created. I’ve touted R-Drive Image as the most stable and reliable backup program I have ever used, and until version 7 — it was. It still is, when operations complete, but I discovered a couple of small visual glitches plus a rather large bug in testing 7.3 (7304) that I actually traced back to 7.0. The company fixed the issues within two days, which is fantastically responsive, but they should’ve been caught by the company before release. It’s not this error message that was disturbing, it was that clicking on cancel just brought it up again. Ending the program via Task Manager was required. Basically, before the fix, if R-Drive Image ran out of room on the destination media during a file imaging task it went into a closed loop with the error dialog that you couldn’t cancel out of. I had to end the program using Task Manager. Drive and partition imaging jobs showed the error dialog, but you could cancel out of it. Then there were the overlapping buttons shown below. Anyone using the program could spot them, which tells me that this version was likely rushed out the door. These overlapping buttons indicate that not enough people at the company are kicking the tires of new releases before they go public. Aside from the one fatal operational glitch and mis-drawn buttons, R-Drive Image performed as I’ve come to expect — admirably. Around a dozen operations to and from internal and external storage, NAS boxes, and online storage services (Dropbox, OneDrive, and Google Drive) went off without a hitch. The recovery media also booted just fine and backup/restore operations were glitch-free. This is more what I’m used to with R-Drive Image. In the final analysis, while the program had some issues with not enough space, all backups that succeeded retained their integrity and were mountable and restorable. That’s the most important aspect. Should you buy R-Drive image? Despite the glitches, which didn’t affect the ultimate sanctity of the backups, I still trust R-Drive Image’s backup engine. Additionally, with the new online support and multiple destinations per job, it’s one of the most complete backup solutions available at the price. I will continue to use and recommend it, but stop letting these faith-challenging bugs out the door, R-TT. Read...